A sudden stop in the operation of a refrigerator or freezer is always stressful for any home cook or home owner, since food supplies are at risk. If you notice that Kandy refrigerator has stopped freezing, but continues to hum and the light inside is on, this indicates that the compressor is working, but the refrigerant is not performing its function or the control system has failed. In most cases, the problem lies in a violation of the tightness of the circuit, a clogged capillary tube, or a failure of the thermostat, which simply “does not see” the need to start the cooling cycle.
However, there is no need to panic ahead of time, since sometimes the reason is trivial and lies in improper operation or failure of the electronics. For example, if you recently defrosted the unit and turned it on too early, or the door was not tightly closed for a long time. Italian Candy equipment is famous for its reliability, but even it is not immune to wear of parts or power surges in the network, which could damage the control board. Before calling a specialist, it is necessary to carry out an initial diagnosis in order to understand the scale of the disaster.
In this article we will analyze in detail all the possible reasons why the unit does not gain temperatureand offer a step-by-step algorithm of actions. You will learn how to distinguish a serious compressor breakdown from a simple filter clog or freon leak. It is important to understand that timely identification of a problem can save the compressor from overheating and costly repairs, so it is absolutely impossible to ignore the first signs of a malfunction, such as long operating time or lack of shutdown cycles.
Primary diagnostics and simple causes
Before disassembling the equipment or looking for leaks, It is necessary to eliminate elementary operating errors, which are often mistaken for failure. If Kandy refrigerator it hums, but does not freeze, first check the tightness of the door to the body. Over time, the rubber seal loses elasticity, cracks or becomes dirty, which is why warm air constantly enters inside, and the unit simply does not have time to cool it. Also make sure that the equipment is installed level and not skewed, as this affects the operation of the self-closing door system.
The second important aspect is the location of products inside the chambers. If you load the shelves to capacity or, conversely, put a hot pan, this disrupts the circulation of air flow. In models with the system No Frost it is especially important not to block the ventilation holes on the rear wall, otherwise the cold will not be distributed evenly. Sometimes it is enough to simply arrange the food correctly and let the equipment run idle for several hours so that the temperature stabilizes.
The third point of check is the temperature regime and the environment. If the refrigerator is located close to the wall or next to heating devices, heat exchange is disrupted. The compressor works hard, trying to compensate for heat inflows, but the cooling efficiency drops. Also check if the settings in the electronic control module have been reset: perhaps one of the household members accidentally switched the appliance to the minimum cooling mode or activated the “Vacation” function, which turns off the main chamber.
Problems with the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the most common reasons why the refrigerator does not freezeis a malfunction of the thermostat (thermostat). This component is responsible for turning the compressor on and off depending on the temperature inside the chamber. If the thermostat fails and is “stuck” in the open state, the compressor simply will not receive a signal to start, and the chamber will become warm. In models with electronic control, instead of a mechanical thermostat, temperature sensorsare used, which can also transmit incorrect data to the control board.
Diagnostics of a mechanical thermostat is often carried out by testing the contacts with a multimeter. If, when the temperature changes, the thermostat rod does not open or close the circuit, the part must be replaced. In electronic models, failure may be caused by oxidation of the sensor contacts or physical damage. It is worth noting that replacing the thermostat this is a procedure that can be done with your own hands if you have basic skills in working with tools and electrical circuits.
Symptoms of sensor or thermostat malfunction often include either constant operation of the compressor without shutting off (if the sensor “lies” that it is warm in the chamber), or complete silence of the unit (if it “thinks” that there is already cold). In some cases, a “short cycle” effect is observed when the motor turns on for a couple of minutes and immediately turns off. This may indicate that the protection system is triggered due to incorrect temperature readings, considering it an emergency.
How to check a thermostat without instruments?
There is a popular test method: if you remove the thermostat and place its sensitive tube in a container with warm water, and the contacts ring, then when the water is cooled (or placed in the freezer), the circuit should burst. However, this method does not provide a 100% guarantee of accuracy, so it is better to use a multimeter.
Faults of the compressor and start relay
The heart of any refrigerator is the compressor, and if it does not work or does not work correctly, there will be no cooling at all. If you hear the motor trying to start, making a clicking sound and humming for a few seconds, and then turning off, the problem is likely in the starting relay or thermal protector. The relay could burn out or stick, preventing the engine from reaching the required speed. In such a situation, the compressor is in danger of burning out the windings, so the equipment cannot be operated.
A more serious problem is the interturn short circuit of the windings of the compressor itself or its mechanical wear. If motor-compressor it hums, but does not start, and at the same time gets very hot, this is a bad sign. You can check the integrity of the windings with a multimmeter by measuring the resistance between the contacts. If the resistance tends to zero or, conversely, shows a break, the compressor will have to be replaced. This is a complex procedure that requires evacuation of the system and charging with freon, so it is difficult to do it yourself.
It is also worth paying attention to the operation of the condenser (black grille at the back). If the compressor is running but the grate remains cold, this may indicate a lack of refrigerant circulation or a starting problem. In normal operation, the condenser should be warm or hot at the top. If the motor is completely silent, check the presence of voltage at its terminals - perhaps the problem is not in the motor itself, but in the lack of power due to a broken wiring or board malfunction.
☑️ Diagnostics of the compressor unit
Freon leakage and clogged capillary tubes
If the compressor runs continuously, hums, the condenser is hot, but the chambers are warm, then with a high degree of probability a refrigerant (freon) leak has occurred or a blockage has formed in the capillary system. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack has formed somewhere (often in the foamed part of the housing or in soldering areas), the gas gradually comes out. Without a sufficient amount of refrigerant, heat exchange is impossible, and the refrigerator stops freezing, working in vain. a refrigerant (freon) leak or a blockage has formed in the capillary system. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack has formed somewhere (often in the foamed part of the housing or in soldering areas), the gas gradually comes out. Without a sufficient amount of refrigerant, heat exchange is impossible, and the refrigerator stops freezing, running in vain.
Clogged capillary tube is the second most common reason for the lack of cold when the compressor is running. An ice plug may form in the system due to moisture trapped or clogged with wear products from the oil and filter drier. In this case, the refrigerant cannot circulate through the circuit. A characteristic sign of a blockage is that the condenser may be warm only at the beginning, and then cool down, or the compressor will work with overheating, trying to push through the plug.
To eliminate these problems, specialized equipment is required: leak detectors, vacuum pumps and gauge manifolds. The technician must find the leak, seal it, replace the filter drier, pump out air from the system and fill in new freon strictly according to weight. It is impossible and dangerous to perform these actions on your own without experience and tools, as you can permanently damage the system or get injured.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Nature of compressor operation | Condenser temperature |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heat in both chambers | Freon leakage | Works continuously | Barely warm or cold |
| The freezer is freezing, the refrigerator is not | Fan or damper malfunction | Operating normally | Hot |
| No cold, silence | Thermostat or electronics failure | Does not turn on | Cold |
| Weak cold, long cycle | Clogged capillary system | Works with overload | Hot unevenly |
Failures in the No Frost system and fan operation
In modern models Candy with the No Frost system there is often a situation where the freezer freezes perfectly, but the refrigerator compartment is warm. This indicates a violation of the circulation of cold air between the chambers. A fan and damper system are responsible for distributing the cold. If the fan is frozen in an ice coat or its motor is burned out, the cold simply does not enter the upper chamber, remaining in the freezer.
Another common problem is a malfunction of the defrost system. The evaporator heating element, defrost timer or defrost sensor may fail, causing a huge layer of ice to build up on the evaporator. This ice blocks the air ducts, and the fan, even if it is working, cannot drive air through the ice plug. Visually this may not be noticeable, since the evaporator is hidden behind a plastic panel on the back wall of the freezer.
For diagnostics, you need to defrost the refrigerator completely (at least 24 hours with the doors open). If, after defrosting, the equipment began to freeze normally, but after a week or two the problem returned, it means that the defrosting system is not working. You need to check the circuit: Heating element → Defrost sensor → Timer/Board. Often it is the heating element that burns out or the insulation of its wires melts.
Electronic control board: diagnostics and repair
Modern Kandy refrigerators are controlled by electronic modules that can fail due to power surges, moisture or manufacturing defects. If the control board is faulty, it may not send commands to turn on the compressor, fan or valves. Often the problem is signaled by flashing indicators on the control panel or a complete lack of response to pressing buttons.
When visually inspecting the board, you may notice blackened traces, swollen capacitors, or traces of burning. However, the breakdown is not always visible to the eye - sometimes microcircuits or transistors burn out that look intact. In such cases, professional diagnostics with an oscilloscope is required. Repairing the board is possible if the technician replaces the burnt elements, but sometimes it is cheaper and more reliable to install a new module.
⚠️ Attention: Before working with electronics, be sure to unplug the refrigerator! Even after switching off, a life-threatening voltage charge may remain in the capacitors. Do not touch the board with wet hands.
It is also worth mentioning failures in the module software. Sometimes an electronics “glitch” can be eliminated by a complete reboot: unplug the refrigerator from the outlet for 15-20 minutes, and then turn it on again. If the problem was a software glitch, the system may restart correctly. If the error recurs, it means that components or the entire board must be replaced.
When you need to call a technician: final recommendations
To summarize, we can say that if the Kandy refrigerator does not freeze, the reasons can vary from simple (loose door, broken settings) to complex (freon leak, burnt out compressor). If initial diagnostics and defrosting did not help, and you do not have the skills to work with power tools and refrigeration equipment, it is better not to risk it. Self-repair of the cooling system without a vacuum degasser and freon is impossible, and inept actions can lead to final breakdown of the unit.
It is especially important to contact a specialist if you hear extraneous knocks, smell a burning smell, or see sparking. In such cases, further operation of the equipment is dangerous. A professional technician will be able to accurately determine the diagnosis using specialized equipment and perform high-quality repairs with a guarantee. Remember that timely repairs are often cheaper than buying a new refrigerator.
⚠️ Attention: The characteristics and designs of refrigerators may vary depending on the year of manufacture and the specific model. Always check the technical documentation (data sheet) of your device before starting any work, since the location of the sensors and the type of refrigerant may differ.
Do not forget to regularly service your equipment: clean the condenser from dust, check the seals and do not overload the chambers with products. Taking good care will extend the life of the compressor and the entire system. We hope that our recommendations helped you understand the causes of the malfunction and make the right decision to restore the functionality of your Candy refrigerator.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator with a malfunction?
Short-term work (several hours) before the technician arrives is acceptable for preserving food, but long-term work operation with a faulty thermostat or freon leak will lead to overheating and combustion of the compressor, which will make repairs economically unfeasible.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the Kandy refrigerator hum, but does not freeze after defrosting?
If after complete defrosting (more than 24 hours) the refrigerator has turned on and is working, but there is no cold, most likely there is a freon leak or a blockage has formed. During defrosting, the ice in the microcrack could melt and gas would escape, or water could enter the system and freeze in the capillary. It is also possible that the fan may be damaged if the ice is not carefully cleaned.
How to understand that the compressor has burned out?
Main signs: the compressor hums for 5-10 seconds and clicks (trying to start), then silence, and so on in a circle. However, it can be very hot. Another option is that the motor hums constantly, but the condenser at the back remains cold. An accurate diagnosis will only be obtained by measuring the resistance of the windings with a multimeter.
Is it possible to add freon yourself?
No, this is impossible without special equipment. To refill, you must first find and repair the leak, then create a vacuum in the system (to remove air and moisture) and only then fill in the refrigerant strictly by gram. You cannot simply “add” gas from a cylinder - the system will stop working efficiently or the compressor will burn out.
What to do if there is water in the refrigerator compartment and ice in the freezer?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system in No Frost models. Most likely, the evaporator heating element, defrost timer or sensor has burned out. Ice clogs the channels, and the cold does not enter the upper chamber, and the condensate does not have time to evaporate. It is necessary to disassemble the back wall of the freezer and replace faulty elements.