The situation when Ariston refrigerator stops working always takes you by surprise, because it threatens food spoilage and disrupts the usual way of life in the kitchen. The owner immediately begins to look for an answer to the question of why the equipment is silent or, conversely, hums, but does not cool. There can be many reasons: from a simple lack of electricity in the outlet to a complex failure compressor or refrigerant leak.
Primary diagnostics often reveal simple problems that can be fixed independently without calling masters However, if we are talking about serious mechanical damage or malfunctions electronic module, the intervention of an unqualified specialist can only aggravate the situation. In this article we will analyze in detail the main symptoms of malfunctions and action algorithms for eliminating them.
It is worth understanding that modern models Ariston are equipped with complex control systems, and ignoring alarm signals can lead to expensive repairs. The most common cause of complete failure is the failure of the start-up relay or compressor windings. Careful monitoring the behavior of the unit in the first minutes after switching on will help more accurately determine the nature of the breakdown.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a burning smell or see sparking in the rear wall area, immediately disconnect the device from the network and do not try to turn it on again before arrival specialist.
Primary diagnostics: electricity and settings
Before you panic and look for the service center number, you need to exclude trivial causes. Users often forget that they may have accidentally touched the temperature control or pulled out the power cord while cleaning. Check whether the light is on indicator lamp inside the camera or on the control panel. If the indicators do not light up, the problem most likely lies in the power circuit.
Make sure that the plug is firmly inserted into the outlet and that the outlet itself is working properly. To do this, connect any other working device to it, for example, a lamp or hair dryer. If the equipment works, but there is no cold, check the thermostat settings. In some models Ariston with electronic control, a power surge may have occurred that reduced the settings to factory settings or the defrost mode.
It is also worth inspecting the power cord for mechanical damage. Bends, abrasions or signs of rodent damage may interfere with contact. If the cable is visually intact, but there is no power, it may have burned out fuse inside the plug (if it is collapsible) or the wire inside the insulation has broken.
Problems with the compressor and start relay
The heart of any refrigerator is the compressor, and If it doesn't start, no cold is produced. A characteristic sign of a malfunction in this unit is sound: the unit may hum for several seconds, then click sharply and go silent. This cycle can be repeated every few minutes. Such symptoms indicate problems with start-protection relay or jamming of the piston group.
The start relay is a small plastic element that fits onto the contact group of the compressor. Over time, the contacts inside it oxidize or burn, which prevents the engine from starting. Replacing this element is one of the most common and relatively inexpensive procedures in refrigerator repair refrigerator repair.
If after replacing the relay the situation does not change and the compressor continues to hum but does not start, or it is silent and gets very hot, the problem may be in the motor itself. In this case, it is often necessary to replace the compressor, since repairing the windings at home is impossible and economically unfeasible.
☑️ Compressor diagnostics
⚠️ Attention: The compressor is under high pressure. An independent attempt to replace the motor or solder tubes without special equipment and a license is prohibited by law and is life-threatening.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
The thermostat (or thermostat) is responsible for turning the compressor on and off depending on the temperature inside the chamber. If this element fails, the refrigerator may either work without interruption or not turn on at all. In models Ariston with mechanical control, mechanical wear of the thermostat bellows tube is most often encountered.
In modern units with a system No Frost and electronic control, temperature sensors (thermistors) are used instead of a thermostat. Their resistance changes depending on the heat, and the electronic module reads these readings. If the sensor is “lying,” the module may think that it is already -30 degrees in the chamber and not give a command to start the compressor.
Diagnostics of the sensors requires the use of a multimeter. It is necessary to “ring” the element at different temperatures. If the resistance does not change or is equal to infinity/zero, the sensor must be replaced. It is also worth checking the integrity of the wiring going to the sensor, since in conditions of constant humidity and temperature changes, the wires can oxidize.
How to temporarily start a refrigerator with a faulty thermostat?
You can close the thermostat contacts directly so that the compressor works constantly. However, this is a temporary measure: the refrigerator will work non-stop, which will lead to freezing of food and rapid wear of the compressor. Use this method only for defrosting or emergency cooling, but not for continuous operation.
Freon leakage and clogged capillary system
One of the most insidious problems is a refrigerant (freon) leak. Freon circulates in a closed circuit, and if a microcrack forms in the tubes or evaporator, the gas gradually evaporates. The symptoms are as follows: the compressor works almost non-stop, trying to gain temperature, but no cold is created or very little is created.
Often a leak occurs in the foamed part of the housing or at the place where the tubes are welded. It is difficult to visually detect the location of a leak; the use of a leak detector and a pressure gauge station is required. After eliminating the leak, the system must be evacuated and filled with new freon strictly according to the weight indicated on the nameplate.
Another problem with the hydraulic circuit is a clogged capillary tube. This can happen due to moisture entering the system (which turns into an ice block) or due to oxidation of the compressor oil. If clogged, the compressor also works continuously, the condenser (grid at the back) may only be half hot, and the evaporator does not freeze.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor is humming 5-10 seconds and clicks | Faulty starting relay | Replacing the relay |
| The motor runs without stopping, there is no cold | Freon leakage | Search leaks, vacuuming, refilling |
| The refrigerator rarely turns on, it’s warm inside | The thermostat/sensor is faulty | Replacing the thermostat |
| A bubbling noise is heard, but there is no cold | Clogged capillary tube | Purge the system, replace the filter drier |
Failures in the electronic control module
Modern refrigerators Ariston are controlled by complex electronics. The control board collects data from all sensors and regulates the operation of the compressor, fans and defrost heating elements. Voltage surges in the network, moisture ingress or simply a manufacturing defect can lead to failure electronic module.
Signs of a module malfunction are varied: chaotic blinking of indicators, failure of control buttons, lack of response to commands, or a situation where everything is on, but nothing works. Sometimes a module can be repaired by re-soldering burnt elements (capacitors, tracks), but often a complete replacement of the board is required.
It is important to note that before replacing the module, you must ensure that the actuators (compressor, fans) are in good working order. If the compressor burned out, it could “kill” the control board. Installing a new board on a faulty unit will result in repeated failure of the expensive component.
⚠️ Attention: Electronic components are sensitive to static electricity. When inspecting the board, be sure to use an antistatic wrist strap or touch grounded metal objects to avoid damaging the microcircuits with a discharge.
Problems of the defrosting system (for No Frost)
If you have a model with the system No Frost, and the refrigerator has stopped freezing, the fan is noisy, and a layer of ice is visible on the back wall or snow, the problem lies in the defrost system. This system consists of a heating element (heater), a defrost sensor and a timer (or electronic control).
During operation, frost freezes on the evaporator. The heating element should be turned on periodically, melt this frost, and the water should go into the drainage. If the heating element burns out or the defrost sensor does not give a command to turn on, the ice builds up, blocks the air circulation channels, and cold stops flowing into the chamber.
For diagnostics, you need to defrost the refrigerator manually within 24 hours. If after defrosting it began to freeze normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem recurred, then one of the elements of the defrosting system is definitely faulty. Most often, the Evaporator heating element or the fuse fails.
Mechanical damage and wear of seals
The reason for the lack of cold is not always electrical. The mechanical integrity of the circuit is equally important. If the refrigerator door does not close tightly due to worn out rubber bands, warm air constantly flows inside. The compressor tries to compensate for the heat, working for wear, but in the end it can overheat and turn off via the thermal relay, without cooling the chamber. seal (rubber bands), warm air constantly flows inside. The compressor tries to compensate for the heat, working hard, but in the end it can overheat and turn off via the thermal relay, without cooling the chamber.
You can check the tightness in a simple way: hold a sheet of paper with the door and try to pull it out. If the paper comes out too easily in different places around the perimeter, the seal requires replacement or restoration (for example, by heating it with a hairdryer if it is simply deformed).
It is also worth checking the door hinges. If the door is skewed, a tight seal cannot be achieved even with a new rubber band. Adjusting the hinges is a simple procedure, often requiring only a hexagon or wrench, but it is critical for the correct operation of Ariston refrigerator.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the Ariston refrigerator hum but not freeze?
This is a classic sign of a freon leak or a clogged capillary system. The compressor is trying to pump refrigerant, but due to depressurization of the circuit, the pressure is not enough for cooling. It is also possible that the compressor may jam.
How long should the refrigerator rest after defrosting before turning it on?
If you defrosted the refrigerator by letting it stand turned off for several hours, let it stand for another 2-3 hours before turning it on. This is necessary so that the oil in the compressor flows into the crankcase and moisture evaporates if it gets on the contacts.
Is it possible to replace the thermostat in an Ariston refrigerator yourself?
In models with mechanical control - yes, it is not difficult. You need to disconnect the old thermostat and connect the new one, observing the markings of the wires. In models with electronics, replacing sensors requires disassembling the internal casing and skills in working with a multimeter.
What to do if the refrigerator does not turn on after defrosting?
Check the outlet and power cord. If everything is fine with the power supply, it is possible that during defrosting water got onto the electrical contacts or into the start relay, causing a short circuit. Let the unit dry for another day in a ventilated room.
Why does the refrigerator work without stopping?
There are several reasons: the door is not tightly closed, a lot of warm food is loaded, the thermostat is faulty (does not turn off the compressor), freon leakage or blockage. This can also happen when the “Super Freeze” function is turned on.