Why the Hotpoint Ariston refrigerator does not turn off

The situation when a refrigerator Hotpoint Ariston stops turning off the compressor is familiar to many owners of this equipment. Instead of the usual rhythm of work with periodic pauses for rest, the unit begins to hum continuously, trying to reach the set temperature. This is not just an annoying noise, it is a signal that cooling system works in emergency mode, consuming a huge amount of electricity.

Why is this happening? Most often, the problem lies in a violation of heat exchange or a malfunction of sensors that simply “do not see” that the cold has already been reached. In some cases, the cause is a simple jamming of mechanical elements or a refrigerant leak. It is important to understand that continuous operation the motor quickly leads to overheating and combustion, so the symptom cannot be ignored.

In this article we will analyze in detail the main causes of failure, methods for diagnosing them and ways to eliminate them. You will learn how to distinguish a software failure from a serious mechanical malfunction, and when you should call a technician and when you can handle it yourself.

1. Violation of tightness and problems with seals

The most common and easily fixable reason why the refrigerator Hotpoint Ariston does not turn off is the entry of warm air into the chamber. If the door does not close tightly, the thermostat detects the increase in temperature and commands the compressor to run without stopping. The main element responsible for the tightness is rubber seal (cuff) around the perimeter of the door.

Over time, the rubber loses its elasticity, cracks or deforms. Also, the seal may simply become contaminated with food debris, causing a gap to form. Check the condition of the cuff: it should fit snugly to the body along the entire contour. If you notice even small gaps, the compressor will work in 24/7mode, trying to compensate for the heat gain.

Sometimes the problem lies not in the rubber itself, but in the door hinges. If they are warped or loose, the door will warp and not fit tightly. This is typical for models with a reversible door if the installation was performed incorrectly. In this case, it is necessary to adjust the position of the door leaf.

• 🔍 Visually inspect the seal for cracks, tears or swelling.
• 🧹 Wash the cuff thoroughly with warm water and soap, removing adhered dirt.
• 🚪 Check the tightness of the seal using a sheet of paper: clamp it with the door and try to pull it out - it should be removed with force along the entire perimeter.

⚠️ Attention: If the seal is deformed, try gently heating it with a hairdryer at a low temperature to return the shape, but this method does not always help.

2. Malfunction of the thermostat or air sensor

The thermostat (or electronic temperature sensor in models with No Frost) is the “eyes” of the refrigerator. It is he who tells the control unit when to turn the motor on or off. If the sensor fails and transmits incorrect data (for example, that the chamber is +10°C, although in fact it is already -5°C), the compressor will work indefinitely.

In older models Hotpoint Ariston with mechanical control, the thermostat is a capillary tube that can lose its seal or become displaced. Modern units use electronic sensors that can oxidize or burn out. Diagnostics requires the use of a multimeter to check the continuity of the circuit.

Symptoms of a sensor malfunction are often accompanied by the absence of a click when the temperature is reached or, conversely, chaotic switching on. If you find that the sensor is “lying,” it must be replaced with an original or compatible analogue. Incorrect readings temperature sensor is one of the most common reasons for continuous operation.

3. Freon leak and problems with the cooling system

One ​​of the most serious reasons why the refrigerator Hotpoint Ariston does not turn off is a refrigerant (freon) leak. When the amount of gas in the circuit decreases, the pressure drops and the compressor cannot reach the required temperature in the evaporator. It continues to work, trying to compensate for the lack of freon, but to no avail.

Leakage can occur due to corrosion of the evaporator tubes (especially if it is foamed in the wall), mechanical damage during transportation, or poor-quality factory soldering. It is difficult to notice a leak visually, but an indirect sign is weak cold or its absence when the engine is running.

It is important to understand that simply “topping up” freon is not enough. It is necessary to find the leak, solder it and only then refill the system. If you ignore the search for a hole, the gas will leave again after a short time, and the compressor will burn out from operation dry or with low pressure.

4. Clogged capillary tube or filter drier

Freon circulates in the cooling system under pressure through a thin capillary tube. If there is moisture or oxidation products in the system, an ice plug or blockage may form. The filter drier, which is supposed to retain moisture, can also become clogged, blocking the flow of refrigerant.

When clogged, the compressor works at its limit, trying to push freon through the obstacle. The pressure at the compressor outlet increases, but there is no cold in the evaporator. This condition is extremely dangerous for motor-compressoras it leads to its overheating and mechanical wear.

A blockage can be diagnosed by a characteristic sign: the condenser grille at the back of the refrigerator only partially heats up or remains cold, although the compressor itself is very hot. The repair in this case is complex and requires evacuation of the system, purging with nitrogen and replacing the filter drier.

• ❄️ Pay attention to the uniform cooling of the condenser grille at the rear.
• 🔊 Listen: if clogged, uncharacteristic gurgling sounds may be heard.
• 🌡️ Check the temperature of the tubes leaving the compressor - they should be hot.

5. Malfunction of the control module or start relay

In modern models Hotpoint Ariston with a system No Frost and electronic control, the electronic module is responsible for turning the compressor on and off. If triacs or a relay that controls the motor burn out on the board, the shutdown command may simply not be received, even if the sensors are working properly.

It is also worth paying attention to the start-protection relay located directly on the compressor. If its contacts are “stuck” in the closed position, current will continue to flow to the motor windings. This is a classic mechanical or electrical malfunction that requires replacing the relay.

To check the control module, professional equipment is often required, since it is difficult to visually identify a burnt element on the board. However, if the refrigerator makes strange sounds, the indicator blinks or behaves inappropriately, the problem is most likely in electronics.

⚠️ Attention: Before checking the electrical components, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply to avoid electric shock!

6. The influence of the external environment and improper operation

Sometimes the reason lies not in the breakdown, but in the operating conditions. If the refrigerator Hotpoint Ariston is installed close to the wall, in a niche or next to heating devices, heat exchange is disrupted. The condenser does not have time to cool down, and operating efficiency drops, forcing the compressor to work longer.

The room temperature is also critically important. Most refrigerators are designed to operate at ambient temperatures from +10°C to +32°C (climate class SN-T). If the room is hotter than +35°C, the refrigerator may simply not cope and work continuously. The same applies to installation near a window in direct sunlight.

Another factor is the loading of the cameras. If you put a large amount of warm food in the refrigerator, it will take a long time to cool the volume. This is fine. But if you constantly open the door or load hot food, the operating mode is lost.

7. Compressor wear

The most unpleasant situation is the physical wear of the compressor itself. Over time, the piston group wears out, the valves lose their tightness, and the compressor ceases to create the necessary pressure. It hums, works, but does not pump freon with the required efficiency.

In this state, the refrigerator can work for days without turning off, because the temperature in the chamber does not drop to the set one. Wear can be determined by the sound (a knocking or clanging sound appears) and by the fact that the engine is very hot, but there is no cold.

There is only one repair in this case - replacing the compressor with a new one. Trying to repair an old sealed motor is not economically feasible and technically difficult. Often, along with the compressor, the filter-drier is also changed.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)