The sudden appearance of loud clicks in the operation of the refrigerator is a signal that cannot be ignored. If the unit previously worked quietly, but now makes sharp sounds when trying to start, this indicates a failure in the electrical circuit or a mechanical malfunction of the engine. Start relay often becomes a source of noise, but do not discount more serious compressor breakdowns.
For the owner of household appliances, it is important to correctly classify the sound: Is it a single click once an hour or a series of frequent blows, accompanied by a hum? Atlant, Indesit and Bosch refrigerators they can produce sounds of different timbre due to the design features of the motors. In this article, we will analyze in detail why extraneous noise occurs, how to carry out initial diagnostics and in what cases a call to a technician is required.
Remember that ignoring the problem can lead to complete failure of an expensive unit. If clicks are accompanied by heating of the compressor housing, further operation is dangerous for the wiring of the apartment. Let's look at it the main causes of the malfunction, so that you can make an informed decision about repairs.
Normal operation or malfunction: how to distinguish
Not all sounds made by the refrigerator are a sign of a breakdown. Modern models, especially those with the No Frostsystem, may click during normal operation. Most often this is due to thermal expansion of plastic parts of the housing or the operation of dampers that regulate the flow of cold air. Such clicks are usually quiet, infrequent and are not accompanied by attempts to start the motor.
However, if you hear a loud, distinct click, followed by the hum of the motor, and then silence or a repeated click, this is a pathology. Start relay in normal mode it works almost silently or makes a very quiet, barely perceptible sound. A loud knock indicates that the circuit opens abnormally or with force.
Pay attention to the repetition frequency. If the refrigerator clicks every 10-15 minutes, trying to start, but does not start, then the protection is triggered. The compressor tries to gain speed, the current increases sharply, and the thermal relay forcibly breaks the circuit to prevent the windings from burning out.
⚠️ Attention: If you smell burning when clicking or see sparking in the compressor area, immediately turn off the power to the device. Further switching on may cause a short circuit in the home electrical network.
It is also important to take into account the age of the equipment. In older models, for example ZIL or early series Stinol, the sounds of mechanical relays were more noticeable. In modern inverter models, loud clicks almost always indicate a malfunction of the electronics or the starting device.
Problems with the starting relay and thermostat
The most common cause of loud clicks is a malfunction of the starting relay. This small block is responsible for supplying a starting pulse to the motor winding. Inside it there is a coil or posistor, which wears out over time. When a relay “clicks,” it physically opens the contacts, interrupting the power supply.
If the relay contacts are oxidized or burnt, they may stick or fail to make a tight connection. In this case, you will hear a characteristic crackling sound or a series of rapid clicks. Replacing this part is one of the simplest procedures in refrigerator repairthat you can do yourself if you have basic skills.
The thermostat can also be a source of sound. When the set temperature is reached, its contacts open, which is accompanied by a click. If the clicking noise becomes too loud or repeats too often (short cycle), the sensor may be stuck or incorrectly calibrated.
To diagnose the relay, it is often necessary to dismantle it. You need to remove the back cover at the bottom of the refrigerator where the motor is located. The relay is usually mounted on the side of the compressor. By carefully disconnecting the wires, you can visually inspect the device for burning or melting of the plastic.
Compressor malfunctions: wedge and breakdown
The most alarming scenario is a malfunction of the very heart of the refrigerator, compressor. A loud click in this case means that the engine is trying to start, the piston group begins to move, but encounters mechanical resistance. This phenomenon is called a “wedge.”
The reasons for the wedge can be different: lack of lubrication, wear of rubbing parts, or foreign particles entering the system. At the moment of an attempt to start, the current in the windings reaches maximum values, which causes the protection to operate with a loud click. If the motor hums for 3–5 seconds, then a click is heard and silence sets in, the probability of a wedge is high.
Another reason may be an interturn short circuit in the motor windings. In this case, the magnetic field is created unevenly, the rotor cannot turn, and the protection relay emergency turns off the power. Danfoss and Secop compressorsinstalled in many modern models, such symptoms often require complete replacement.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Sound character | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single click, silence | Starting relay burned out | Sharp, dry click | Replacing the relay |
| Humming for 3-5 seconds, then clicking | Compressor wedge | Increasing hum, blow | Motor diagnostics, replacement |
| Frequent clicks without buzzing | Thermostat malfunction | Series of rapid clicks | Checking the temperature sensor |
| Trilling and humming | Problem with the fan | Metallic ringing, friction | Lubricating or replacing the fan |
It is important to understand that “treating” a jammed compressor with traditional methods, such as increasing the voltage or hitting with a hammer, is strictly not recommended. This can lead to depressurization of the system and the release of freon, which will require expensive refilling.
The influence of voltage drops and wiring
Unstable voltage in the electrical network is a common culprit of problems with household appliances. If the voltage drops below the permissible threshold (usually 190–200 Volts), the compressor does not have enough power to start. The motor hums, but does not start, the current increases, and the thermal protection is triggered with a characteristic click.
Check the condition of the refrigerator socket and plug. Oxidized contacts or loose wiring create additional resistance. At the point of poor contact, sparking may occur, which is also accompanied by crackling and clicking sounds. This is especially true for older homes with worn-out electrical wiring.
It is also worth checking the extension cord if the refrigerator is connected through it. Cheap extension cords with thin wires cannot withstand the compressor's inrush currents. The wire heats up, the resistance increases, and the voltage at the input to the refrigerator drops, causing malfunctions in the start relay.
If you live in a private house or in a country house, where voltage surges are the norm, installation stabilizer is mandatory. This will not only eliminate clicks, but will also extend the life of the refrigerator electronics for years.
Mechanical causes of noise and vibration
Sometimes a loud sound perceived as a click is of a mechanical nature. The vibration of a running compressor is transmitted to the refrigeration circuit tubes. If the copper tubes are located too close to each other or touch the body, they can collide during vibration, producing loud clicking sounds.
On models with the system No Frost the fan is often the source of noise. The blades may touch ice that has formed on the evaporator, or a foreign object that has fallen inside the chamber. In this case, the clicks will be rhythmic and frequent, coinciding with the fan speed.
Also check the fastening of the compressor itself. If the shock-absorbing springs on which the motor is suspended burst or come off, the compressor housing will hit the metal frame or cabinet walls when starting. This creates a very loud metallic clang.
☑️ Diagnosis of mechanical noise
To fix the problem with the tubes, sometimes it is enough to carefully (with your hands, without tools, so as not to damage!) straighten them, ensuring a gap. However, be extremely careful: damage to the tube will lead to a refrigerant leak.
Specifics of faults in different brands
Different manufacturers use different components, which affects the nature of the faults. For example, in refrigerators Indesit and Ariston the starting relay often fails due to its design feature with a posistor. Clicks in such models usually precede a complete stop of the unit.
In technology LG and Samsung with linear compressors, clicks may be associated with a malfunction of the inverter control board. The electronics tries to start the motor, receives an error and interrupts the process. Here, diagnostics are more complicated and require special equipment.
Old Soviet refrigerators, such as Minsk or Biryusa, were equipped with reliable but noisy starting relays with a coil. A click in them is a normal sound of contacts opening, but if it has become louder than usual, it means that the mechanism is worn out and requires replacement with a modern analogue.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing a relay or other electrical components, make sure that the new part fully matches the markings of the old one. Using unsuitable relays can lead to compressor combustion.
Knowing the features of your model helps you quickly find spare parts and understand the specifics of repairs. Always look for information on a specific compressor or relay part number, and not just on the refrigerator brand.
Self-diagnosis algorithm
If you decide to carry out diagnostics yourself, proceed consistently. First, make sure the refrigerator is plugged into a working outlet. Then listen: is the click coming from the bottom (compressor) or from inside the chamber (thermostat/fan)?
Remove the back cover and inspect the compressor. If it is hot to the touch, but cold inside the chamber, and you can hear clicking sounds, there is a problem with the starter unit or motor. If the compressor is cold and silent, the thermostat or control module may be faulty.
How to check the relay without disassembling?
Try to lightly tap the relay body (not the compressor!) with the handle of a screwdriver at the moment when the refrigerator should start. If the engine starts working after the knock, the relay definitely needs to be replaced. But this is a temporary measure!
For a more accurate check of the relay, you need to remove it and shake it. If a ringing sound is heard inside (as from broken ceramics), it means the posistor is destroyed. You can also “ring” the contacts with a multimeter: in the closed state, the resistance should be zero.
If the problem persists after replacing the relay and checking the wiring, most likely professional diagnostics of the compressor is required. Do not delay contacting service, as peddling will finish off the motor.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if it clicks, but is cold?
Short-term operation is possible, but not recommended. Clicking sounds indicate system overload. Sooner or later the compressor will burn out or the thermal protection will work, and the cold will disappear completely. It is better to eliminate the cause of the noise.
How much does it cost to replace the start relay?
The part itself is inexpensive (usually from 500 to 1500 rubles depending on the model), but calling a specialist and doing the work will increase the amount. Replacing it yourself is more economical if you are confident in your abilities.
Why does the refrigerator click immediately after being plugged in?
This may mean that the thermostat requires cooling, but the relay cannot start the motor. Or there is a failure in the control system, and it sends incorrect signals to start.
Is this dangerous for the electricity in the apartment?
Constant attempts to start (clicks every 10 seconds) create high starting currents, which can lead to heating of the wiring, melting of the socket or knocking out plugs. This is a fire hazard.
Can a new refrigerator click?
A new unit may click due to plastic expansion or the operation of the dampers. But loud electrical clicks upon startup are not typical for new appliances and may be grounds for a return under warranty.