The situation when the upper chamber refrigerator Indesit begins to work in deep freezing mode, turning into a freezer, is a common problem for owners of equipment of this brand. Instead of the usual +2...+5°C, ice build-ups appear on the shelves, and products not intended for storage at subzero temperatures become covered with frost or completely freeze. This is not just discomfort, but a direct risk of damage to supplies and disruption of the operating mode of the entire unit.
Most often, the reason for this behavior is a failure in the temperature control system or a violation of the tightness of the circuit. Refrigeration circuit may be working properly, but if the control electronics or mechanical sensors transmit incorrect signals, the compressor will work without interruption. Owners often confuse the symptoms, believing that the problem is in the amount of freon, although in fact the electronics are to blame.
In this article we will analyze in detail the main reasons why Indesit it is very cold in the upper compartment, and we will provide a step-by-step diagnostic algorithm. Understanding how your model works will help you avoid unnecessary expenses on calling a technician to fix simple faults. However, it is worth remembering that some types of repairs require special tools and qualifications.
The principle of operation of the No Frost and drip defrosting system
To understand why “Antarctica” formed in the refrigeration chamber (RHC), it is necessary to briefly consider the structure of the unit. Most modern models Indesit use a combined system: the freezer compartment (MC) is equipped with technology No Frostand the refrigeration compartment operates on the drip principle or also has a ventilation system. The cold is generated in the evaporator, located behind the rear wall of the MK, and is distributed among the volumes.
The key element here is the air damper or thermostat, which doses the supply of cold air from the freezer to the upper compartment. If this mechanism jams in the open position, the ice flow freely enters the refrigerator compartment, freezing the entire contents. The electronics may “think” that it’s still warm in the MK and continue to drive the cold, ignoring the state of the VHC.
It is important to distinguish between models with one compressor and two-compressor systems. In the first, the temperature is regulated by the redistribution of air masses, in the second, each circuit operates independently. If you have a single compressor Indesitthen the problem almost certainly lies in the air circulation system or sensors that control the temperature in the upper zone.
Faulty thermostat and temperature sensors
The most likely culprit for extreme cold in the upper compartment is a failed one thermostat (thermostat). This device is responsible for opening the compressor power circuit when the set temperature is reached. If the thermostat contacts “stick” in the closed state, the compressor works continuously without turning off for rest, which leads to overcooling of all chambers.
In electronic models Indesit instead of a mechanical regulator, temperature sensors (thermistors) are used. Their resistance changes depending on the heat, and the control module reads this data. If the thermistor “lies” and shows the module that the chamber is +10°C, although it is already -5°C, the controller will keep the compressor on. Often such sensors fail due to power surges or natural aging.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing the thermostat or sensors, be sure to disconnect the refrigerator from the power supply. Working with live electrical wiring is dangerous and can lead to a short circuit of the control board.
Diagnostics of the thermostat at home is possible if you have a multimeter. When the sensitive tube of the thermostat cools (or the temperature of the thermistor changes), the resistance should change and the contacts should open/close. Lack of response indicates the need to replace the element. In electronically controlled models, resetting errors often helps, but if the sensor is physically faulty, it will need to be replaced.
Problems with the air damper and cold distribution
In refrigerators Indesit with a system No Frost or combined cooling, the operation of the air damper is critical (dumper). This is a mechanical or electromagnetic curtain that opens and closes at the command of a thermostat or electronic module, allowing cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment. If the damper becomes jammed with ice or breaks mechanically, it will remain open.
A constant flow of air at a temperature of -18°C and below will quickly turn the upper chamber into a freezer. The food on the shelves near the back wall will become covered with a crust of ice, and the vegetables will freeze. Sometimes the valve is working properly, but is clogged with debris or ice chips, which prevents it from closing tightly. In such cases, a whistling sound of passing air is heard.
To check, it is necessary to dismantle the back panel in the refrigerator compartment (if the design allows) or remove the plastic air duct box. A visual inspection will show whether the damper mechanism moves freely. If it is electric, you need to check whether voltage comes to it when you change the temperature settings.
Failures in the electronic control module
The “brain” of the refrigerator Indesit is an electronic control module. It is he who processes signals from sensors and commands the compressor, fan and defrost heaters. If a failure occurs in the control board (for example, the compressor control triac burns out or the operating logic is disrupted), the refrigerator may go into continuous freezing mode.
Often the cause is not a complete breakdown of the board, but oxidation of contacts or broken connections in the wiring harnesses. Vibration during compressor operation over the years causes the connectors to come loose and the module no longer receives correct data. As a result, it turns on emergency modein which the equipment operates at full power, ignoring temperature restrictions.
Diagnostics of the module is complex and requires special knowledge. However, you can try to reboot the system: unplug the refrigerator for 15-20 minutes. If after turning on the problem recurs, most likely, professional diagnostics of the board or replacement of burnt components is required.
The influence of seals and chamber tightness
It would seem that if the refrigerator freezes very much, then it should be sealed. However, the situation is paradoxical: a loose fit door seal (rubber bands) can lead to increased operation of the compressor. Warm, humid air from the room constantly enters inside, sensors detect the increase in temperature and give a command to cool.
The compressor works for wear, trying to “freeze out” the constantly incoming heat. As a result, an excess layer of ice forms in the freezer and the upper chamber, and the temperature drops below normal. This is especially noticeable in the hot season or if the refrigerator is located next to the radiator. Check the condition of the rubber: it should be clean, elastic and fit tightly to the body around the entire perimeter.
It is also worth checking whether the door is warped. If the refrigerator has not been serviced for a long time, the hinges may have weakened, causing the door to warp, creating a gap in the corner. In this case, even a working thermostat will not be able to stabilize the temperature, since the heat loss is too great.
☑️ Diagnosis of the seal
Table: Comparison of symptoms and probable causes
For ease of diagnosis, we have systematized the main symptoms of a malfunction. Compare your behavior Indesit with the data in the table to narrow down the search for the problem.
| Symptom | Probable cause | Difficulty of repair |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor does not turn off, hums constantly | The thermostat or temperature sensor is faulty | Medium (sensor replacement) |
| Ice only at the back wall, food in front is normal | The damper is open or clogged with ice | Low (cleaning/adjustment) |
| Refrigerator freezing, but warm inside | Freon leak or capillary blockage | High (needs a technician) |
| Indicators are flashing, chaotic freezing | Electronic module failure | High (board repair) |
| Icing around the entire perimeter of the door | The door seal is damaged or skewed | Low (rubber replacement) |
Instructions: How to defrost and check refrigerator
Before disassembling the unit or calling a technician, try performing a complete defrost. This is the simplest and often effective way to eliminate false sensor readings and defrost a jammed damper. In 30% of cases, after proper defrosting, Indesit refrigerator begins to work normally.
The procedure must be carried out correctly so as not to damage the system. Simply turning off the device for an hour is not enough - ice in hard-to-reach places needs time to melt completely. It is also important to let the equipment “settle” before turning it on so that the refrigerant and oil in the compressor are distributed correctly.
⚠️ Attention: Never use a knife, hair dryer or hot water to speed up the thawing of ice! Mechanical damage to the evaporator (tubes with freon) will lead to an immediate leak of refrigerant and expensive repairs, which are often not economically feasible.
Follow the following steps: unplug the refrigerator, remove all food, open the doors and leave it for at least 12-24 hours (preferably for a day). Place containers to collect water. After defrosting, wipe the chambers dry, close the doors and turn on the device without load for 2-3 hours. If after this time the temperature stabilized, the problem was in the ice.
What to do if after defrosting the problem returned a week later?
If after some time (a week or two) the situation repeats, then the reason is not a one-time failure, but a malfunction of the defrost system (heating element, timer, defrost sensor). In this case, ice builds up in the evaporator, blocks the damper or sensors, and the cycle repeats. Diagnostics of the No Frost system is required.
When you need to call a technician
There are situations when self-repair is not only useless, but also dangerous. If you checked the thermostat, seals and did a complete defrost, but Indesit the upper chamber continues to freeze heavily, the problem is probably deeper. For example, a compressor needs to be replaced, refilled with freon, or a capillary tube re-soldered.
You also need the help of a specialist if you hear extraneous sounds: gurgling, metallic knocking or loud humming. This may indicate that the compressor is running dry or there is water hammer in the system. Ignoring these symptoms will lead to the final failure of the unit.
Do not forget that intervention in a sealed circuit requires a license and special equipment. An independent attempt to replace freon or solder a tube without a vacuum sealer and pressure gauges is doomed to failure.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why do vegetables freeze in the Indesit refrigerator compartment, although the thermostat is set to minimum?
This is a classic sign of a malfunctioning thermostat or temperature sensor. They are stuck or transmit incorrect data and the compressor does not receive the command to stop. It is also possible that the air supply damper is open completely and does not close.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if it is very cold?
For a short time - yes, but constantly working in this mode is harmful for the compressor, which does not turn off. In addition, the food in the upper chamber will spoil. It is better to eliminate the cause.
How to understand that it is the damper that is broken and not the thermostat?
If the thermostat is working (the compressor turns off when the temperature in the freezer is reached), but there is still ice in the upper compartment, the problem is in the damper, which allows cold to pass through when it is not needed. If the compressor does not turn off at all, the thermostat is to blame.
Is it necessary to replace the entire refrigerator if the control module is burned out?
No, in most cases the control module Indesit can be repaired or replaced with an analogue. This is a standard procedure that does not require replacing the entire unit if the other components (compressor, evaporator) are intact.
Is the water frozen in the refrigerator door - is this normal?
No, the water in the door grooves or on the shelves near the door should not freeze. This indicates that the temperature in the chamber has dropped significantly below 0°C, which is a sign of a malfunction of the thermoregulation system.