The appearance of condensation, freezing of food or, conversely, their rapid spoilage often indicate failures in the temperature control system. Owners of Stinol equipment are the first to begin to look for the answer to the question of where the thermostat is located, since it is this unit that most often fails during long-term operation.
Understanding the design is necessary for quickly diagnosing a malfunction without calling a technician. Thermoregulator is a key element that opens and closes the electrical circuit of the compressor depending on the temperature inside cameras.
In this article we will analyze in detail the location of sensors in various models, methods for checking them and the nuances of replacing them yourself so that you can return your refrigerator to functionality.
The operating principle and types of thermostats in Stinol
Before When looking for the installation location, it is important to understand what type of regulator is installed in your model. Refrigerators Stinolmanufactured in Lipetsk were equipped with both mechanical and electronic control systems, depending on the year of manufacture and price segment.
Mechanical devices operate based on the expansion of gas or liquid inside the bellows of a capillary tube. When the temperature reaches the set value, the bellows contracts and opens the contacts, stopping the compressor. Electronic analogues use thermistors, the resistance of which varies with heat.
In most models, especially the 102, 103, 104 i 105series, a classic mechanical thermostat with a long capillary tube is used. Capillary must be carefully placed in the evaporator for correct reading data.
⚠️ Attention: An attempt to replace a mechanical thermostat with an electronic analogue without altering the control circuit will lead to damage to the compressor or board.
You can determine the type of your regulator by the appearance of the control knob. If it is a rotary mechanism with marks from 1 to 5 or from “Min” to “Max”, you have a mechanic in front of you. The digital display and buttons indicate the presence of an electronic control module.
Where is the thermostat located in single-chamber models
In classic single-chamber refrigerators Stinol, where the freezer is located on top, the thermostat is most often hidden inside the case. Manufacturers often hide the assembly behind decorative panels to prevent accidental damage.
The standard location is in a niche above the refrigerator door or inside the lampshade. To access it, you will need to dismantle the top cover or remove the lampshade itself. In some modifications, the regulator handle is moved outside, and the body itself is hidden behind the wall.
The capillary tube in such models is laid inside the rear wall of the chamber, often it is fixed in a special channel or pressed against the evaporator. Tube length usually about 2-3 meters, which allows you to cover the working area.
If you do not see obvious signs of a thermostat on the outside, inspect the top of the refrigerator compartment. Removing the decorative strip often opens access to the electrical unit, where the desired element is located.
Location in two-chamber No Frost refrigerators
Two-chamber system models No Frost have a more complex design. Here the thermostat (or temperature sensor) can be located in several places, since control is carried out separately for the refrigerator and freezer compartments.
The main regulator is often hidden behind a plastic panel on the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment. To get to it, you need to carefully unclip the panel latches. Below it you will see a control unit where the thermostat is mounted next to the light lamp.
In the freezer, sensors can be built directly into the wall or mounted on the air ducts. Evaporator in such models it is hidden behind the back panel, and the capillary tube of the mechanical thermostat contacts it through a special hole.
Mounting features in No Frost
In No Frost models, the capillary tube often passes through the door seal or a special hole in the body, so when replacing it is important not to pinch it and maintain the tightness of the passage.
Please note that in modern modifications the mechanical the thermostat can be replaced with an electronic sensor, which looks like a small cylinder with two wires inserted into a socket.
Instructions for dismantling and access to the unit
To carry out replacement or diagnostic work, you must strictly follow the sequence of actions. Violation of the disassembly procedure can lead to damage to the plastic elements or a refrigerant leak if the cooling system tubes are touched.
First, you must completely turn off the power to the refrigerator by unplugging the cord from the outlet. This is a basic electrical safety requirement, which cannot be ignored when working with electrical circuits. Then empty the chambers of food and remove all the shelves that interfere with access to the upper part.
☑️ Preparation for dismantling
Carefully remove the lampshade or top cover. They are usually held in place by latches or one or two screws. After removing the protection, you will see the thermostat attached to the bracket. Disconnect the wires, having previously memorized or photographed the connection diagram.
When removing the capillary tube, proceed without sudden jerks. If it gets stuck or stuck, use gentle heat (hair dryer) where it exits the housing, but do not overheat the plastic parts.
Diagnostics of thermostat malfunctions
Before buying a new part, make sure that the problem is in the thermostat. Symptoms may be similar to a faulty compressor or start relay. The main testing tool is a multimeter.
Remove the thermostat and disconnect the wires. Turn the multimeter into dialing mode. At room temperature, the contacts should be closed (unless it is a specific overheat shutdown sensor). Place the sensor in a cold place (for example, in a freezer) and check if the circuit opens.
| Symptom of malfunction | Probable Cause | Verification method |
| :--- | :--- | :--- |
| Refrigerator won't turn on | Thermostat circuit open | Testing contacts with a multimeter |
| The refrigerator runs non-stop | Contacts are stuck | Visual inspection and cold trip check |
| Frequent on/off | Incorrect calibration | Measuring the temperature in the chamber with a thermometer |
| Freezing of “fur coat” in the refrigerator compartment | The circuit does not open | Checking the temperature difference |
If the contacts do not ring or, conversely, do not open during strong cooling, the part must be replaced. Also pay attention to the condition of the capillary tube: the presence of dents or traces of oil may indicate depressurization.
Replacing and setting up a new thermostat
Installation of a new regulator is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling. Proper placement of the capillary tube is critical. It should fit snugly against the evaporator or fit into the standard hole at the same depth as the old one.
Fix the thermostat housing in its original place and connect the wires according to the diagram. Make sure the connections are secure and not loose. After assembly, turn on the refrigerator and set the control knob to the middle position.
The first cycle of operation may take longer, as the system needs to get into mode. Do not load the refrigerator with food in the first 2-3 hours of operation. Temperature conditions should stabilize within 24 hours.
⚠️ Attention: If after replacement the refrigerator begins to work incorrectly (it freezes too much or does not gain cold), perhaps the capillary tube is not installed deep enough or does not have contact with the heat exchanger.
For precise adjustments, you may need to adjust the screw on the thermostat itself, but in domestic conditions it is better to focus on the position of the handle. Factory calibration is usually quite accurate for normal operating conditions.
Common mistakes during self-repair
DIY Repair saves the budget, but beginners often make common mistakes that lead to repeated breakdowns. One of the most common is damage to the capillary tube during installation.
A thin copper tube is easily pinched or broken. If you accidentally kink the tube or develop a crack, the refrigerant will escape and the thermostat will stop working. In this case, only complete replacement of the unit will help.
Another mistake is ignoring grounding. If your thermostat has a ground terminal (usually marked with a ground symbol), it must be connected. This protects the user from electric shock if the compressor insulation breaks down.
Also, you should not use thermostats from other manufacturers without checking the characteristics. Although the seats of Stinol, Indesit and Ariston often coincide, the capillary length and temperature range may differ.
Questions and answers (FAQ)
Is it possible to use a thermostat from another brand, for example, TAM-112?
Yes, often thermostats of the TAM series (made in Russia) are complete analogues for Stinol refrigerators. The main thing is that the length of the capillary tube and the temperature response range match.
Why does the refrigerator freeze too much after replacing the thermostat?
Perhaps the capillary tube is not fully inserted into the socket or is in poor contact with the evaporator. Also check if the tube is twisted, which interferes with the circulation of gas inside the bellows.
How to understand that the thermostat is stuck?
If the refrigerator operates continuously without turning off, and ice has formed in the chamber, and when you turn the knob to the “Off” position, the compressor does not stop - most likely, the thermostat contacts are welded or stuck.
Is it necessary to defrost the refrigerator before replacing the thermostat?
Yes, complete defrosting (at least 24 hours) is necessary so that the moisture from the chambers evaporates. Working with electricity in a humid environment is dangerous, and ice can interfere with access to components.