Detection of deformation of the casing of refrigeration equipment is always an alarming signal that requires an immediate response from the owner. If you notice that the wall of the refrigerator is swollen, you cannot ignore this phenomenon, as it indicates serious problems in the operation of the cooling system or thermal insulation. In most cases, bulges on the side panels or back indicate problems with freon pipes that run directly inside the cabinet structure.
Modern models, especially the budget and mid-range segments, often have a hidden defrosting system, where the pipelines are built into the walls of the case. If the seal is broken or the refrigerant pressure changes, the metal begins to deform. It is important to understand that even a small swelling can develop into a tube rupture, which will lead to complete failure of the unit and the need for expensive refueling.
In this article we will analyze in detail the physical nature of the occurrence of such defects, analyze typical failure scenarios and propose an action algorithm. DIY Repair possible only in the early stages or with specific skills, but in most cases intervention is required professionals with vacuum equipment.
Physics of the process: why metal is deformed
The main reason why swelling occurs lies in the arrangement of the elements evaporator and the capacitor. In many refrigerator models, such as Indesit, Atlant or Beko, the defrost or main cooling circuit pipes are mounted in the side walls or rear panel. The metal sheet of the housing in these places serves both as a chamber wall and as a heat exchanger.
When the refrigerant circulates through the system, it is under a certain pressure. If local overheating, water hammer or corrosion of the pipe from the inside occurs, the pressure at a particular point can increase sharply. Because the space between the inner plastic lining and the outer metal casing is limited, the expanding gas or steaming coolant forces the softer metal out. This is how the characteristic “bubble” is formed.
⚠️ Attention: If you hear a hissing or whistling sound when the swelling appears, immediately unplug the device. This may indicate depressurization of the system and leakage of freon, which is dangerous not only for equipment, but also for health when inhaling refrigerant vapors in a closed room.
Another factor contributing to deformation is corrosion. Moisture entering the space between the walls (for example, during washing or due to condensation) causes the pipe to rust from the inside out. Rust “eats” the metal, making it thin and vulnerable. Under the pressure of even residual gas in the system, such a thinned area easily bursts or swells.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator with a swollen wall?
Operation is only possible for a short time. If the swelling is not accompanied by a leak (the refrigerator is freezing), the risk is minimal. However, the pressure in the system may increase, which will lead to a complete rupture of the pipe and the release of the entire volume of freon. It’s better not to take risks and carry out diagnostics.
Diagnostics: determine the degree of danger
Before deciding to call a technician or attempt repairs, it is necessary to conduct a thorough visual and auditory diagnosis. First of all, evaluate the nature of the deformation: is it a single tubercle or a whole area of swelling? Localization also matters: areas most often affected are the upper part of the side walls or the center of the rear panel.
Check the operation of the compressor. If the unit hums louder than usual, works without interruptions, or, conversely, often clicks and turns off, this is a sign of a heat exchange problem. When the wall swells, heat transfer may be impaired, which forces compressor to work for wear, trying to reach the set temperature.
Use a soap solution to check for microcracks. Apply foam to the area of the swelling (after defrosting the chamber if the swelling is inside). The appearance of bubbles will indicate that the pipe has already burst. If the surface is intact, perhaps the process has just begun, and the pressure is still holding inside the pipe.
It is also important to pay attention to the temperature in the chambers. If the refrigerator has stopped freezing, but the compressor is running, it means that freon has already escaped through the crack in the bulge. In this case, further operation is pointless until the leak is eliminated and refilled.
Typical causes of wall swelling
Understanding the root cause helps to avoid a repetition of the situation after repair. Most often, the problem is technical in nature and is associated with wear and tear of materials or manufacturing defects. However, user errors also play an important role.
List of the main factors leading to the defect:
- 🔩 Factory defective soldering: if the pipe was soldered poorly, a gap could remain at the joint, which expanded over time under pressure.
- 🧊 Mechanical damage: impacts sharp objects (knife, fork) during defrosting can damage the internal plastic lining and touch the pipe, causing its deformation.
- 🌡️ Overheating systems: clogging of the capillary tube or a malfunction of the thermostat can lead to a critical increase in pressure in the circuit.
- 💧 Moisture and corrosion: the constant presence of water in the niches contributes to the rapid rusting of thin-walled aluminum or steel tubes.
Models with the system are especially worth noting. No Frost. In them, swelling of the back wall in the freezer is often associated with a malfunction of the defrost heating element. If the heater does not turn off in time, it can overheat and melt the plastic, as well as deform nearby elements.
Methods for eliminating bloating: a professional approach
If diagnostics have shown that the pipe is intact, but the bloating is interfering or progressing, you can restore the geometry of the wall. However, if a leak occurs, a comprehensive repair using welding and vacuum will be required.
Professional repairs usually include the following steps:
- Draining the refrigerant and dismantling the casing (in difficult cases).
- Cutting out the damaged section of the pipe or installing a patch (if access possible).
- Replacement of the evaporator section with a hinged (external) one, if the internal one cannot be restored.
- Evacuation of the system and refilling with new freon.
In the case when the swelling is caused simply by the expansion of gas inside the sealed pipe without rupture, craftsmen sometimes resort to a careful puncture and releasing the pressure followed by soldering the hole. But this is a temporary measure, since the cause of high pressure (for example, a blockage) will not go away.
⚠️ Attention: It is strictly forbidden to try to break through the swelling yourself without bleeding out the freon. You risk injury from gas escaping under pressure or poisoning. In addition, a spark from the tool can ignite the compressor oil.
Often the only correct solution is installation external evaporator. Craftsmen cut off the back panel of the freezer, remove the damaged internal circuit and install a new aluminum coil inside the chamber or on the back wall outside. This is reliable, but requires highly qualified performer.
Is it possible to fix bloating yourself?
Independent repair is only possible if you have the skills to work with refrigeration equipment and have the appropriate tools. For the average user, tampering with the refrigerant circulation system is prohibited.
However, if the swelling affected only the outer decorative layer or plastic inner panel without damaging the pipes, the situation can be corrected. Carefully remove the internal plastic lining (if the design allows), smooth out the dent or cut off the bulge, and install a new insert made of food-grade plastic.
Checklist of actions in case of suspected breakdown:
☑️ Primary diagnosis
If you decide to replace the seal or plastic panel, make sure to use materials that are resistant to low temperatures. Ordinary plastic will become brittle and crack in the cold. Use specialized polymers for refrigeration equipment.
Comparison of repair options
When choosing a strategy for restoring a refrigerator, it is important to weigh the pros and cons. Below is a table that helps you decide on a method for solving the problem depending on the situation.
| Problem type | Solution method | Cost | Efficiency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Local swelling without leaks | Pressure control, installation of a patch | Low | Medium (risk of relapse) |
| Corrosion and fistula in the wall | Installation of external evaporator | Average | High |
| Rupture of the internal pipe | Replacement of the pipeline section | High | High |
| Damage to the plastic | Replacement of the internal panel | Low | High |
It is worth considering that for older models of refrigerators (older 10-12 years) the cost of high-quality repairs with replacement of the evaporator can be up to 50-60% of the price of a new device. In such cases, it is often more rational to consider purchasing new equipment.
Why is an external evaporator better than an internal one?
The internal pipes in modern refrigerators are often made of aluminum and are subject to rapid corrosion. The external copper or aluminum coil does not come into contact with moisture inside the wall and lasts much longer.
Prevention and care of the body
To extend the life of the refrigerator and avoid problems with swelling of the walls, you must follow simple operating rules. Regular defrosting (for drip systems) prevents excessive ice buildup, which can put pressure on internal components.
Never use sharp objects to chip ice. Even a light blow with a knife can damage the thin wall of the pipe hidden behind the plastic. Use special defrosting sprays or just wait for natural thawing.
Keep the rear condenser grill clean. Dust and animal hair that accumulate there impair heat transfer, forcing the compressor to work longer and increasing the pressure in the system, which indirectly affects the condition of the pipelines in the walls.
⚠️ Attention: Do not install the refrigerator close to the wall. A gap of at least 5-7 cm is necessary for free air circulation around the housing. Overheating of the back wall accelerates the aging of materials and can cause deformation.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Is it dangerous to continue using the refrigerator if the wall is slightly swollen?
If the swelling is not accompanied by a freon leak (the refrigerator is freezing, the compressor is operating normally), there is no direct danger. However, this is a “ticking time bomb”. The pressure can increase at any time, leading to rupture. It is recommended to reduce the load on the unit and schedule a visit from a technician.
How much does it cost to repair a swollen wall?
The price depends on the model and repair method. Installing an external evaporator costs on average from 3,000 to 6,000 rubles (excluding the cost of materials and freon). Only a specialist can tell you the exact amount after on-site diagnosis.
Is it possible to seal the bulge with sealant?
No, ordinary sealant will not withstand the internal pressure of the pipe and low temperatures. Moreover, if there is already a microcrack under the bulge, the sealant will not stop the leak of freon, but will only hide the visual defect, which can lead to more serious damage to the compressor.
Why is the rear wall swollen?
The rear wall is the exit point of the condenser tubes and often the area where the compressor is attached. The highest temperatures and pressures in the system are concentrated here, which makes this area most vulnerable to thermal expansion and corrosion.
How to understand that a pipe inside the wall has burst?
Main signs: the refrigerator has stopped freezing, the compressor runs continuously or does not start at all (if the protection has worked), as well as a characteristic whistle or hiss at the point of swelling during operation unit.