The situation when the refrigerator has stopped freezing in the upper chamber takes any home cook by surprise. The food begins to deteriorate, and an unpleasant smell of dampness appears inside. Most often, the problem lies in a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a malfunction in the temperature control system. Ignoring the first signs of malfunction can lead to expensive compressor repairs or complete replacement of the unit.
In this article we will look at the main reasons why the refrigerator does not freeze from above, but continues to work in the lower compartment. You will learn how to carry out initial diagnostics yourself without calling a specialist. Understanding the operating principles of your Indesit, Atlant or Bosch will help save time and money.
It is worth noting that modern two-chamber models are more complex than the old single-chamber “giants”. Here the cold is distributed forcibly or due to natural convection, and a failure in one node upsets the balance in the entire system. Therefore, it is important to act consistently, eliminating simple mistakes before disassembling the equipment.
Checking the operating mode and thermostat
Before grabbing the tools, you need to make sure the settings are correct. Often, users accidentally change the operating mode or set the temperature regulator to the wrong position. If the camera is too warm, check whether the mode is set to Holiday or Eco. In this case, the upper chamber can operate in a gentle mode or be completely turned off.
Mechanical thermostat is a device that is responsible for turning the compressor on and off. If its knob is turned to minimum, the cold simply will not be produced in sufficient volume. Try to smoothly turn the control knob towards increasing power and listen for a click. Lack of response may indicate a breakdown of the sensor itself.
⚠️ Attention: When turning the thermostat knob, do not use excessive force. A sharp jerk can lead to a break in the bellows tube, which will require a complete replacement of the unit and refilling the system with freon.
In electronic models with a display, the failure may be software. Sometimes the system freezes and stops sending a signal to start the compressor or fan. In such cases, a simple reboot helps: unplug the device for 10-15 minutes, and then turn it on again. If after this refrigerator started to gain temperature, then the problem was in the electronic control unit.
Problems with the No Frost system and fan
In refrigerators with a system No Frost cold is generated in one compartment (usually the freezer chamber) and is forced by a fan into the refrigeration compartment. If the upper chamber has stopped freezing, but everything is fine below, the first suspicion falls on the fan or air supply channels. Air ducts clogged with ice chips block circulation.
Often the cause is a malfunction of the fan itself. If its blades are frozen or the motor is burned out, the cold air simply does not reach the upper shelves. You can check this by opening the refrigerator door and listening: if the sound of the fan disappears or changes, the part requires replacement. It is also worth inspecting the damper that regulates the air flow.
- ❄️ Check that the ventilation holes are not blocked by food or packaging.
- 🌀 Make sure that the fan rotates freely and does not make any extraneous sounds.
- 🧊 Inspect the evaporator for excessive icing, which can block the flow.
If you find ice on the back wall or in the fan area, complete defrosting will be required. Leave refrigerator unplugged with doors open for at least 24 hours. This will allow the ice to melt and clear the channels. Do not use a hair dryer or hot water to speed up the process, as sudden temperature changes are dangerous for plastic parts and evaporator tubes.
☑️ Diagnostics of the No Frost system
Refrigerant leak and capillary blockage tubes
One of the most serious reasons why refrigerator the top freezes poorly is a freon leak or a clogged capillary tube. In such cases, the compressor may work continuously, trying to gain temperature, but there is not enough cold even for one chamber. Usually, when there is a leak, it is the upper compartment that first stops freezing, since the refrigerant reaches it last.
The capillary tube is clogged due to moisture entering the system or oil oxidation products. Freon cannot circulate through the circuit, and the pressure in the system drops. It is difficult to diagnose this on your own, but there are indirect signs: a hot condenser (grid at the back), a running compressor and a lack of cold. Unlike a leak, when clogged, the tube before entering the evaporator may be cold, and afterward - warm.
| Symptom | Freon leak | Capillary clogged | Compressor malfunction |
|---|---|---|---|
| Compressor operation | Works without stopping | Works without stopping or cyclically | Humms, but does not start or is silent |
| Condenser temperature | Barely warm or cold | Hot | Temperature depends on the mode |
| Evaporator condition | Clean, without ice | Partial ice at the beginning of the tube | Not cooling |
| Sound of operation | Normal hum | Gurgling or hissing | Relay clicks or silence |
A call is required to fix these problems craftsmen with equipment for vacuuming and filling. It is impossible to independently find a leak or break through a blockage without a special tool. Attempts to “pump up” freon without eliminating the cause will only lead to a temporary effect and damage to the compressor.
Why can’t you ignore the operation of the compressor without stopping?
If the compressor works continuously for more than a day, it overheats. Engine oil loses its properties, the piston group jams, and repairs become economically unfeasible. It is easier to buy a new refrigerator than to change the compressor, filter and refill.
Faults of sensors and electronic module
In modern models, such as LG, Samsung or Whirlpool, electronic sensors (thermistors) are responsible for the temperature. If the temperature sensor in the refrigerator compartment fails and shows incorrect data, the control module may “think” that there is already cold and will not start refrigeration. This is a common reason when the equipment is visually intact, but does not work.
You can check the sensor with a multimeter by measuring its resistance at different temperatures. However, most often the technicians simply replace the element with a new one, since diagnostics take a lot of time. It is also worth inspecting yourself electronic module: swollen capacitors or traces of burning on the board indicate the need for repair or replacement.
⚠️ Attention: Electronics are sensitive to power surges. If your network often “jumps” electricity, use a stabilizer. Otherwise, replacing a burnt-out module will become a regular expense.
Sometimes the problem lies in a break in the wiring running from the door to the body. Constantly opening and closing the door leads to breaking of wires in the corrugation. As a result, the door or fan sensor stops receiving power, and the system goes into emergency mode or simply does not turn on the cooling. Carefully inspect the wiring harness at the top of the doorway.
Wear of the compressor and start relay
The compressor is the “heart” of the refrigerator. If it is worn out, it may not have enough power to create enough pressure in the system. In such cases refrigerator It can freeze, but very weakly, and first of all the cold stops flowing to remote areas, that is, to the upper chamber. A characteristic sign is quiet but continuous operation of the motor.
Often the culprit is the compressor start relay. This is a small plastic block that fits over the motor contacts. Inside there is a coil and contacts that burn or stick over time. If the relay is faulty, the compressor either does not start at all (a clicking and humming noise is heard) or works intermittently.
You can replace the starting relay yourself by selecting an analogue according to the markings. This is an inexpensive part, and replacing it often revives the equipment. However, if the problem is in the compressor itself (low compression), then only replacing it can help. Compression diagnostics requires connecting a pressure gauge station to the service pipe.
- 🔌 Check the integrity of the wires going to the start relay.
- 🔨 Gently tap the relay (sometimes the contacts stick), but it is better to replace it immediately.
- 🌡️ Touch the compressor housing: it should be warm, but not hot.
Operating rules for prevention
In order to refrigerator serve for a long time and not stop freezing, it is important to follow the operating rules. Do not place hot food in the chamber - this puts extra stress on the compressor and leads to excessive ice formation. Also, do not load the chamber tightly with food, leave space for air circulation.
Regularly check the rubber seals on the doors. If they do not fit tightly, warm, moist air enters the chamber, which settles on the walls and freezes. Over time, the ice coat blocks the system. Wipe the seals with a soft cloth and check their elasticity.
Keep the condenser grid at the back of the refrigerator clean. Dust and animal hair act as a thermal insulator, preventing heat transfer. This causes the compressor to work longer and harder, which leads to premature wear. You need to vacuum the grill at least once every six months.
What to do if after defrosting the refrigerator still does not freeze?
If after 24 hours of defrosting the problem does not disappear, then the reason is not ice freezing. Most likely, a freon leak has occurred, the fan or thermostat has failed. In this case, professional diagnostics with tools is required.
Is it possible to use a refrigerator if it does not freeze well?
For a short time - yes, but the food may spoil. Long-term operation in this mode is dangerous for the compressor, which wears out. It is better to temporarily move the food to another place and do repairs.
Why does only the top stop freezing in a refrigerator with one compressor?
In such models, freon passes first through the freezer compartment, and then through the refrigerator. If there is little refrigerant (leakage) or the circulation is impaired, there is not enough of it for the second circuit (top), although it may still be cold in the freezer.