Finding a place where is the temperature switch locatedbecomes critically important when the refrigerator ceases to maintain the required cold or, conversely, begins to turn food into ice. In everyday life, this part is often called a thermostat or thermostat, and it is responsible for turning the compressor on and off. Understanding its location is the first step to self-repair, which can save a significant amount on calling a technician.
The location of this unit directly depends on the type of your refrigeration unit: it is single-chamber or double-chamber, with a drip system or No Frost. In older Soviet-made models, access to the sensor is usually easier, while in modern electronic control systems the components can be hidden behind decorative panels. Thermostat is a mechanical or electronic device that reads the temperature inside the chamber and sends a signal to the motor.
Before proceeding with disassembly, it is necessary to completely de-energize the equipment. Working with electrical components requires compliance with basic safety rules, since a residual charge may remain inside the case or voltage may be present in the 220V network. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to stop at the diagnostic stage and call a specialist.
Differences in location depending on the type of refrigerator
To accurately determine where is the temperature switch located in your particular case, you need to know the design features of the model. In single-chamber refrigerators, such as the classic Biryusa or Saratov, the thermostat is almost always located inside the refrigerator compartment. Its adjustment knob protrudes on the front panel or inside the cabinet, and the body itself is hidden behind it.
In two-chamber units the situation is more complicated. Here, the temperature sensor is most often located in the refrigerator compartment, but its sensitive tube (capillary) can go into the freezer or be built into the evaporator. In systems No Frost mechanical thermostats are less common; they are replaced by air sensors (thermistors), which are mounted on plastic housings of evaporators or air ducts.
⚠️ Attention: In refrigerators with the No Frost system, trying to find a cool mechanical relay with a handle may be useless. Here, the control is often completely electronic, and the “relay” is a small sensor on a board or in a plastic case, embedded in the wall.
Modern models may have remote sensors that are hidden behind the back wall of the camera or even under the casing from the outside. This is done to protect against moisture and mechanical damage. Therefore, if a visual inspection of the interior does not produce results, partial disassembly of the unit may be required.
Searching for a thermostat in single-chamber models
In classic single-chamber refrigerators, the answer to the question, where is the temperature switchusually lies in the upper corner of the chamber. If you see a plastic handle with numbers or modes (“Minimum”, “Maximum”), then the part you are looking for is located immediately behind it. To get to it, you need to carefully remove this handle, pulling it towards you, and unscrew the fastening screws under it.
After removing the decorative trim, you will see a metal or plastic thermostat housing. A long copper or aluminum tube will extend from it - this is capillarywhich is embedded in the evaporator. It is through this tube that information about the temperature of the refrigerant is transmitted. In some models, for example, in old "Minsk" refrigerators, the thermostat can be mounted on a bracket directly on the chamber wall.
Access to the insides in such models usually does not require removing the back wall of the case. It is enough to dismantle the internal plastic panel or lampshade if it interferes with the view. Often the thermostat is hidden under the light bulb to save space and use a single mounting unit.
Location of sensors in two-chamber refrigerators
In two-chamber units temperature relay (the thermostat) is almost always installed in the refrigerator compartment, even if the problem with cold is observed in the freezer. This is due to the fact that the main cooling cycle is triggered by the temperature in the upper chamber. You can find it by tracing the path from the control knob into the body.
Often the thermostat is hidden behind the top cover of the refrigerator compartment or behind the decorative panel covering the lamp shade. In models of the brand Indesit or Ariston popular last decade, the thermostat was often mounted in a niche above the door or on the side of it. To gain access, you had to unscrew the top lid of the cabinet completely.
If your refrigerator does not have a knob inside, and the control is carried out by buttons on the outer door (electronic), then there is no mechanical relay with a capillary there. In such cases, the control function is performed electronic sensors, which can be located:
- 📍 On the back wall of the fridge compartment (often closed with a plastic plug).
- ❄️ Inside the air duct between the chambers (requires disassembly of the internal lining).
- 🧊 In the evaporator area of the freezer (accessed by removing the rear panel of the freezer).
It is important to understand that in two-chamber models with one compressor, the thermostat controls the temperature of only the refrigerator compartment. The freezer compartment is cooled "by the residual principle" until the motor turns off. Therefore, the breakdown of this particular relay leads to the defrosting of both compartments or, conversely, to their deep freezing.
Access features in No Frost systems
Refrigerators with the system No Frost are radically different in the design of the cold system. Here you will not find the usual copper tube surrounding the evaporator. Instead of a mechanical thermostat, air temperature sensors are used that respond to the temperature of the circulating air. Where is the temperature switch located (in this case, sensor) in such systems? Most often, it is hidden behind the back wall of the refrigerator or freezer.
To access the sensor in the No Frost system, complete defrosting and removal of the internal plastic panel covering the evaporator is often required. This is a labor-intensive process that requires care, since plastic becomes brittle in the cold. The sensor is usually a small plastic cylinder or tablet fixed in a special socket or pressed against the evaporator radiator.
In some models, for example, Samsung or LG, sensors can be integrated into a control unit, which is located outside the cameras, but is connected to them by wire harnesses. However, the sensitive element itself is still located inside the working area. An error in determining the type of sensor (mechanical versus electronic) can lead to the purchase of an unnecessary spare part.
Why is there no mechanics in No Frost?
Mechanical thermostats are inertial and cannot quickly respond to changes in air temperature, which is critical for the No Frost system. Electronic sensors provide accuracy up to 0.1 degrees.
Diagnostics and signs of relay malfunction
Before changing a part, you need to make sure that this is the problem. If temperature relay fails, the refrigerator behaves predictably incorrectly. The main symptoms help distinguish a thermostat failure from a compressor malfunction or freon leak.
The most striking sign is that the compressor runs continuously without turning off, and the fridge compartment turns into a glacier, or the motor does not start at all, and it is warm in the chamber. If, when you turn the control knob counterclockwise all the way, a characteristic click does not occur, and the motor does not start (even if the socket and light are working), then the thermostat is most likely “stuck” in the open state.
For an accurate check, you can carry out a simple test with a jumper. After disconnecting the refrigerator from the network, you need to remove the terminals from the thermostat contacts and connect them directly with a piece of wire. If, after connecting to the network, the compressor starts working, it means that the circuit is working, but it’s to blame temperature relay.
☑️ Thermostat diagnostic checklist
Table of location in popular brands
For ease of search, we present a summary table where thermostats are most often hidden in models of various manufacturers. This will help you find your way if the documentation is lost.
| Brand | Typical location | Access features |
|---|---|---|
| Atlant | Inside the chamber, under the lampshade or above door | You need to remove the lampshade and the top decorative trim |
| Biryusa | Inside, in a niche near the ceiling of the chamber | Access by removing the handle and screws under it |
| Indesit | Behind the top cover of the housing (outside) or inside | Often it is necessary to remove the top cover of the cabinet completely |
| Samsung/LG | Electronic sensors behind the rear wall | Requires disassembly of the internal lining and evaporator |
| Stinol | Inside, next to the lampshade lighting | Hidden behind the plastic panel of the camera ceiling |
It is worth noting that within the same brand, the location may change from series to series. Therefore, visual inspection always takes precedence over tabular data. If you see a handle, look for the body underneath it. If there are no handles, get ready to disassemble the panels.
Replacement and precautions
Replacement temperature switch is not a complicated procedure, but requires care. The main rule: the new thermostat must have exactly the same marking codes as the old one. Even if the dimensions are the same, the length of the capillary and the temperature response range may differ, which will lead to incorrect operation of the refrigerator.
⚠️ Attention: Do not bend the copper capillary of the new thermostat at an acute angle and do not allow it to bend. Damage to the capillary will lead to leakage of the filler gas, and the thermostat will become a useless piece of metal.
When installing, make sure that the sensitive tube fits tightly to the evaporator or fits into the standard socket to the same depth as the old one. Insufficient contact will cause the sensor to “lie” about the temperature in the chamber. After replacement, be sure to check the tightness of the connections and the absence of sparking when turned on.
After assembling all the components and connecting the refrigerator to the network, do not expect an instant result. The unit may require from 2 to 5 hours of operation to reach the operating mode and turn off at the command of the new thermostat. If the compressor does not stall after 6 hours of continuous operation, it means that the installation was carried out with errors or the part is defective.
Is it possible to temporarily short-circuit the relay so that the refrigerator works?
Technically, if you connect the wires directly (bypassing the thermostat), the compressor will work constantly. This will allow you to save food in an emergency, but this mode is dangerous: the evaporator will become covered with ice, and the motor may burn out from overload in a few days. This solution is only for a couple of hours before the technician arrives.
Why does the refrigerator not turn off after replacing the relay?
There may be several reasons: the temperature range of the new relay is incorrectly selected, the capillary does not fit tightly to the evaporator, or there is not enough freon in the system. It is also possible that the problem was not in the relay, but in the door seal or thermostatic valve.
Where can I find the thermostat markings?
The marking is usually applied to the metal body of the part (for example, TAM-133, K-59, 117303). To see it, you often have to completely remove the thermostat from its seat, since only the plastic handle is visible from the outside.
Is it dangerous to change the relay in the refrigerator yourself?
Replacing the electrical part itself is safe when the power is turned off. The only risk is when working with refrigerant (freon), but when replacing the thermostat, the tightness system is not broken, since the capillary is only inserted into the channel and is not connected directly to the tubes.