The situation when the refrigerator Indesit stops freezing in the upper compartment, and in the lower freezer the food melts or, conversely, an ice block forms, is classic for appliances of this brand. Owners often notice that the lower part is working normally, but the cold simply does not reach the upper shelves. This indicates a violation of the refrigerant circulation or a failure in the defrost control system, which is typical for single-compressor models with a system No Frost or “Weeping Wall”.
Ignoring the problem in the early stages can lead to a complete loss of products and expensive repairs of the compressor. In 80% of cases, the cause is a malfunction of the evaporator defrost system or failure of the defrost timer, which does not switch the circuits to cooling. It is important to understand that independent diagnostics require caution, since working with electrical circuits and refrigerant involves certain risks.
Before calling a technician, it is worth conducting an initial visual inspection and eliminating trivial causes, such as such as a loose door fit or installation of the refrigerator close to the wall. However, if the unit is humming, the compressor is running, but there is no cold, the problem lies deeper. Below we will analyze in detail the main components that fail most often, and will help you determine which element requires replacement in your case.
⚠️ Attention: Before starting any work on diagnosing or disassembling the refrigerator Indesit be sure to disconnect it from the power supply. Working with live electrical components is life-threatening.
Malfunctions of the defrost system and heating element
The most common reason why there is heat in the upper chamber of the refrigerator Indesit is that the evaporator is fouled with ice. In models with a No Frost or Low Frost system, ice accumulates on the hidden evaporator, blocking the cold air supply channels. If the defrost system is not working, the ice plug blocks the fan, and cold air physically cannot enter the upper section.
The key element here is Defrosting heating element (tubular electric heater). It is located directly on the evaporator and must be turned on on a timer to melt the ice. If the heating element burns out, the ice does not melt, accumulates and turns into a monolith. You can check its integrity with a multimeter in continuity mode: a serviceable heater shows a resistance in the range of 200–400 Ohms, the absence of a response from the device indicates an open circuit.
How to check the heating element without removing
For initial diagnostics, you can try to defrost the refrigerator manually. If after complete defrosting (24 hours) the unit begins to freeze normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem returns, the heating element or defrost sensor is faulty.
In addition to the heater, defrost sensor (defrost thermostat) is responsible for the process. It controls the temperature of the evaporator and turns off the heating element when the ice has melted. If this sensor is “stuck” in the open state, the heating command will never be received, even if the heating element itself is working. Replacing these components requires partial disassembly of the rear wall of the freezer.
- 🔥 Defrost heating element - the main heating element that burns out due to power surges.
- 🌡️ Defrost sensor - thermostat that controls the defrosting cycle evaporator.
- ❄️ The evaporator is a heat exchanger that becomes overgrown with ice when the defrost system malfunctions.
Problems with the defrost timer and fan
In old and some modern models Indesit for switching the “cooling” and “defrost” is answered by a mechanical or electronic timer. If this unit gets stuck in the “defrost” position or simply stops switching contacts, the compressor can work, but the cold is not distributed among the chambers. In such cases, the refrigerator hums, but the upper chamber remains warm.
The second important element of circulation is fan. It is he who forces the cold air from the freezer upward. If the fan blades are frozen to the ice crust or its motor fails, circulation stops. You can often hear the fan trying to start, making a humming or crackling sound, but not spinning. This is a sure sign that it is blocked by ice or the motor winding is burned out.
To check the fan, you need to get to it through the back panel in the freezer. Rotation should be free, without backlash or extraneous sounds. If the motor burns out, replacing it will take no more than 15–20 minutes. It is also worth checking the wiring going to the fan, since in conditions of constant humidity and temperature changes the contacts could oxidize.
☑️ Fan diagnostics
Freon leakage and clogged capillary system
If the defrost system and fan are working properly, but the cold does not enter the upper chamber, the problem may lie in the refrigeration circuit. In refrigerators Indesit with one compressor, freon first passes through the freezer compartment, cooling it, and only then enters the refrigeration compartment circuit. When refrigerant leak the pressure is not enough to reach the top, so the freezer can still freeze, and there is heat from above.
Another technical malfunction - clogged capillary tube. An ice plug may form in the circulation system or debris may enter, blocking the flow of freon. The symptoms are similar to a leak: the compressor runs continuously, trying to gain temperature, the condenser (grid at the back) may be cold or warm unevenly, and the evaporator in the freezer is covered with an uneven layer of frost.
Diagnosing a leak requires professional equipment. The technician uses a leak detector or a method of washing pipe joints. It is almost impossible to eliminate a leak or blockage on your own, since the system must be evacuated and refilled with new freon under pressure. Attempts to simply add gas without eliminating the cause will give a short-term effect.
| Symptom | Probable cause | The nature of the compressor |
|---|---|---|
| The freezer is freezing, the top is warm | Lack freon (leakage) | Works without stopping |
| Frost only at the entrance of the tubes | Clogged capillary system | Hot to the touch, buzzing |
| Ice coat on the evaporator | Defrost malfunction | Works cyclically |
| Noise, crackling, no cold | Fan malfunction | Works normally |
Faults in electronics and sensors
Modern refrigerators Indesit are controlled by an electronic module that receives data from various sensors. If temperature sensor in the refrigerator compartment it transmits incorrect data (for example, it shows that it is already -10°C, although in fact it is +15°C), the module will not give a command to cool. As a result, the compressor may not turn on at all or work too little.
It is also worth paying attention to the air damper (damper), if it is provided for in the design of your model. This is a mechanical motorized damper that regulates the amount of cold air coming from the freezer. If the damper drive is stuck in the closed position or the motor is burned out, air will not flow into the upper chamber. You can check this by opening access to the air supply channel and assessing the mechanical condition of the damper.
The electronic control module can also fail due to power surges. In this case, it may not control the defrost timer correctly or may not supply voltage to the compressor. Outwardly, this may manifest itself in chaotic blinking of indicators or a complete lack of response to control buttons. Repairing the module requires the qualifications of a radio engineer.
The effect of improper operation on cooling
Often the reason that the refrigerator Indesit stopped freezing on top lies not in a breakdown, but in a violation of operating rules. For example, if the refrigerator door does not fit tightly due to a dirty seal or misalignment, warm, moist air constantly flows inside. This leads to increased formation of frost on the back wall, which eventually blocks the cooling channels.
Loading the refrigerator to capacity with food also disrupts air circulation. If the shelves are so packed with pots and bags that the ventilation holes are blocked, cold air simply cannot be distributed throughout the chamber. It is especially critical to close the openings located on the back wall or under the top drawer.
Another factor is installing the refrigerator close to a wall or furniture. For the condenser (black grille on the back or sides) to work effectively, free air flow is necessary. If the refrigerator is “suffocated” in a niche, the compressor overheats, the cooling efficiency drops, and first of all the cold ceases to reach the upper chamber.
⚠️ Attention: The rubber seals on the doors require regular cleaning. Fat and crumbs, getting into the folds, interfere with a tight fit, which leads to constant freezing of ice and malfunctions.
Specifics of models with one and two compressors
When diagnosing, it is important to take into account the design of your Indesit. In models with one compressor (most old and budget series), the cold is generated in the freezer and redistributed. Here, problems with the upper chamber are almost always related to circulation (fan, damper, icing of channels).
In models with two compressors (Dual Cooling) the upper and lower chambers have independent cooling circuits. If the top of such a refrigerator does not freeze, and the bottom works perfectly, the problem is localized precisely in the refrigeration chamber circuit: the upper compressor, its start relay, the thermostat of the upper chamber are faulty, or there is a freon leak in this particular circuit.
You can determine the number of compressors by noise (one beep or two independent) and the presence of two separate temperature controllers inside the chambers. Understanding this difference helps to narrow down the troubleshooting and not check components that physically cannot affect the upper chamber in your modification.
Frequently asked questions and answers (FAQ)
Why did the Indesit refrigerator start to freeze after defrosting, but after a week it stopped again?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction in the automatic defrosting system. Temporarily the ice melted and the air began to flow again. However, since the heating element, timer or defrost sensor is not working, ice has again accumulated and blocked the channels. The faulty element of the No Frost system needs to be replaced.
Is it possible to operate the refrigerator if the upper chamber does not freeze?
For a short time - yes, but not recommended. The compressor will run continuously, trying to reach temperature, which will lead to overheating and rapid failure. In addition, the food in the upper chamber will quickly deteriorate.
How much does it cost to repair if the defrost heating element burns out?
The cost consists of the price of the spare part (the heating element for Indesit is inexpensive) and the work of a technician to disassemble the freezer. On average, this is one of the less expensive breakdowns compared to replacing the compressor or refilling with freon.
How to understand that the problem is a freon leak and not in the electronics?
If there is a leak, the compressor works almost non-stop, and the condenser (grid at the back) remains cold or barely warm. If the electronics malfunction, the compressor may not turn on at all or turn on for a short time, and the grille will be hot.