The situation when Atlant refrigerator stops maintaining a low temperature in the main chamber, while the freezer compartment continues to operate normally, is one of the most common problems in service centers. Users often experience that food in the upper compartment begins to deteriorate, the ice melts, but the compressor hums continuously, creating a false impression that the system is working properly. This behavior of the equipment indicates a violation of heat exchange or malfunctions in the control loop, which require immediate diagnosis.
Independent determination of the malfunction is possible only if you have basic knowledge about the structure of the unit, but it is important to understand that some breakdowns require the intervention of a professional. If you notice that refrigerator compartment it is not cooling, do not panic - in some cases the problem can be solved by simple adjustments or replacement of available parts. However, ignoring the symptoms can lead to failure of an expensive compressor.
In this article we will examine in detail the main causes of temperature imbalance, typical for models Atlant with one or two compressors. We will look at mechanical, electrical and system failures that cause the cold to stop flowing into the main compartment. Understanding these processes will help you make the right decision on further actions.
The principle of operation and distribution of cold in the system
To understand why Atlant refrigerator it does not cool in the main compartment, it is necessary to briefly consider the refrigerant circulation diagram. In classic two-chamber models, cold air from the freezer can enter the refrigerator through special channels (No Frost system) or through a separating wall (drip system). If the compressor is working properly and the freezer is freezing, it means that the main cycle of freon compression and condensation has been started.
The problem most often lies in the fact that the refrigerant does not reach the evaporator of the main chamber or heat exchange does not occur there. In models with with one compressor an electromagnetic valve is often responsible for switching cold flows. If it is stuck in the freezer only position, the top compartment remains warm. In two-compressor models, each circuit is responsible for its own unit, and here the situation is simplified: if the top does not cool, it means that the second circuit or its control is not working.
It is important to note that modern control systems use complex algorithms. Temperature sensors may erroneously signal to the controller that the chamber is already cold enough, causing the compressor not to turn on or to operate in too short cycles. This creates the illusion of a breakdown, although in fact it is the electronics that are malfunctioning.
Malfunctions of the thermostat and temperature sensors
One of the first reasons why Atlant refrigerator does not gain temperature in the upper compartment is the failure of the thermostat (thermostat) or electronic sensor. This element is responsible for turning the compressor on and off depending on the temperature inside the chambers. If the thermostat is “stuck” in the “off” position or the sensor transmits incorrect data to the control board, the compressor simply will not start to cool the upper compartment.
In mechanical models, the thermostat is a device with a bellows tube that responds to changes in freon pressure in the evaporator. Over time, the tube may lose its seal or become deformed. In electronic models, thermistors are responsible for control - semiconductor elements whose resistance varies with temperature. Their breakdown often results in the control module receiving a false signal that the target temperature has been reached.
Diagnostics of this problem requires a multimeter. It is necessary to “ring” the sensor at different temperatures and compare the readings with reference values for a specific model Atlant. If the resistance does not change or shows a break, the part must be replaced.
⚠️ Attention: When replacing a thermostat or sensor, make sure that the sensing tube of the new element fits tightly to the evaporator. Poor contact will lead to incorrect operation and frequent starts of the compressor.
Problems with the compressor and start relay
Although the condition says that the freezer is working, this does not always mean that the compressor group is fully operational. In dual-circuit systems (two compressors), failure of the upper unit is obvious. But if there is only one compressor, it may work at half capacity or may not develop sufficient pressure to pump freon through both circuits at the same time. Often the culprit is the start relay.
Start relay responsible for starting the compressor engine. If its contacts are burnt or the mechanism is jammed, the compressor may hum, but not start, or start only on one circuit (depending on the design of the system). In some cases, the relay may click at intervals of several minutes, which is a sure sign of a starting attempt that was unsuccessful.
It is also worth paying attention to the operation of the motor itself. If it overheats or makes an unnaturally loud noise, there may be a winding shorted between turns. In this case, performance falls, and the freon pressure is only sufficient for the freezer chamber located closer to the outlet of the compressor, and the refrigerant does not reach the refrigerator compartment in the required volume.
How to check the start relay?
Remove relay from the compressor and shake it. If you hear the internal parts ringing (like breaking glass), then the trigger coil or contacts are damaged and the relay needs to be replaced. You can also check the resistance of the multim windings - WIDGET
Refrigerant leakage and system clogging
The most difficult and expensive problem is a freon leak or capillary tube clogging. If a microcrack has formed in the system, the refrigerant gradually evaporates. Since the freezer compartment is usually at the beginning of the circulation cycle, it may have enough residual gas to maintain freezing, while the freon no longer reaches the refrigerator compartment or does not have time to boil, taking away the heat.
Clogging the capillary tube with oil wear products or moisture (ice jam) leads to a similar effect. The circulation is disrupted, the pressure in the system drops, and the cooling efficiency of the main chamber tends to zero. It is often impossible to determine a leak visually, since gas can escape through microscopic holes in the foamed part of the case.
Symptoms of a leak or blockage are:
- ⚡ The compressor works continuously, without turning off, trying to gain temperature.
- ⚡ The condenser grille at the back of the refrigerator is either cold, or it is only partially hot.
- ⚡ A “fur coat” has formed in the freezer only at the entrance of the tubes, and the rest is warm.
- ⚡ The appearance of oily spots under the refrigerator (with a strong leak).
To eliminate this malfunction, you need to call a technician with equipment for vacuuming and refilling. Finding a leak in a foamed circuit on your own is almost impossible without a special tool.
Malfunctions of the defrost system (for No Frost)
In models Atlant with the No Frost system, the problem may lie in a violation of the evaporator defrost cycle. If the defrost heating element, timer or defrost sensor fails, a coat of ice builds up on the evaporator, which is located behind the back wall of the freezer. This ice blocks the channels through which cold air should flow into the refrigerator compartment.
As a result, the fan moves air, but it cannot pass through the radiator clogged with ice. The freezer can continue to freeze, since the source of cold is inside it, but the cold does not reach the upper chamber. Over time, there is so much ice that it can even block the fan, and then the freezer will stop cooling.
To test this hypothesis, you can completely defrost the refrigerator within 24 hours (with the doors open). If after turning on the refrigerator began to work normally, but after 1-2 weeks the problem recurred, it means that the defrosting system is faulty and requires replacement of components (heating element, sensor or timer).
| Symptom | Probable cause | Necessary actions |
|---|---|---|
| The compressor hums, but does not start | The starting relay is faulty | Replacing the relay |
| The refrigerator does not turn off | Freon leak or blockage | Searching for leaks, refueling |
| It’s warm in the chamber, there’s ice on the back wall | Failure of the defrost system (No Frost) | Checking the heating element and sensors |
| Temperature floats, food deteriorate | Thermostat/sensor is faulty | Replacing the thermostat |
Mechanical damage and operating errors
Sometimes the reason that Atlant refrigerator does not cool is trivial and hidden in improper use. For example, if the main compartment door does not close tightly due to a worn seal, warm air constantly enters the chamber. The compressor tries to compensate for heat loss by working without stopping, but due to overload or design limitations it cannot cope with the task, while the freezer, which is opened less often, retains the cold.
It is also worth checking whether the products are loaded close to the back wall. In drip systems, this can lead to freezing of the condensate drainage channel and disruption of heat exchange. In No Frost systems, food may block the outlet openings of the air ducts.
Another factor is the location of the refrigerator. If it is too close to a wall or radiator, air circulation around the condenser is disrupted. This leads to overheating of the system and a decrease in cooling efficiency, which primarily affects the less powerful circuit of the refrigeration chamber.
☑️ Diagnostics before calling a technician
⚠️ Attention: Do not try to tear frozen products from the back wall with a knife or sharp objects. You can damage the evaporator, which will lead to an immediate leak of freon and expensive repairs.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Why does the Atlant refrigerator hum, but does not cool, although the freezer is working?
Most likely, the capillary tube is clogged or there is a leak Freon. The pressure in the system is only enough for the first circuit (freezer), but it does not reach the second. It is also possible that the compressor fails because it does not develop the required power.
Is it possible to operate a refrigerator if the upper chamber does not cool?
For a short time - yes, but not recommended. The compressor will work in overload mode, trying to gain temperature, which can cause it to burn out. In addition, the products in the upper chamber will quickly deteriorate.
How long does the repair take if refilling with freon is needed?
The process of searching for leaks, soldering, vacuuming and refilling usually takes from 2 to 4 hours. However, if a compressor replacement or complex repair of the foamed part is required, the time may increase.
Why did the refrigerator start working normally after defrosting, but then stopped working again a week later?
This is a classic sign of a malfunction of the defrost system (in No Frost models) or the presence of moisture in the system, which freezes in the capillary. Defrosting temporarily eliminates the ice jam, but the cause remains.